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EDITOR’S NOTE: This review is for the 2016 version of the weather station. The 2017 appears to have some small differences in design but is mostly similar. As of right now the only version of the station to have a manual available online is the 2015 version, which you can find. UPDATE 2 (October 30, 2017): Several have reported, with the 2017 version, inaccuracies of 6-8 degrees with the outdoor sensor and / or the batteries in the outdoor sensor discharging far too quickly.
One solution that some people have found successful in solving one or more of these problems is to pull the batteries, switch the outdoor sensor to Celsius (this does not affect the reading on the indoor sensor, only the display on the outdoor one) and then replace the batteries. UPDATE 1 (October 1, 2017): After over a year of use, our weather station mostly still works well.
One notable exception is the outdoor humidity reading, which no longer is accurate. The rest of the review still holds true. To prove the point that Aldi sells a little bit of everything: one of their occasional Special Buy items is a digital weather station. The brand is Sempre, which produces other small electronics, like alarm clocks and watches, for the grocer.
The Sempre Digital Weather Station, at least in this model year, came in four different variations: white horizontal, white vertical, black horizontal, black vertical. The picture above is the one I bought, the black vertical. All four variations had the same information, just with different layouts. The station retailed for $20 in the United States.
I bought the Sempre station to replace an old brand-name that had finally worn out. I wasn’t sure what to expect from the Sempre, especially since weather stations, even name brand ones, can be a little dicey on the review front. But I took the risk, and I figured that with a 3-year-warranty, I’d have some options if things went wrong.
(You can find both the manual and warranty information for the 2015 version; as of right now the 2016 manual is not available online.) Setup was easy — easier, in fact, than my previous brand-name station. I placed the station in my house, placed the sensor in a covered space outside as the instructions said, then began powering things up.
The outdoor sensor runs on AA batteries; the station runs on either batteries or AC, so you have a lot of options for location. Once the batteries were in and the correct buttons pressed, the station started picking up the remote sensor pretty quickly. Configuring the station’s time, date, and other preferences was also easy, thanks to a straightforward manual. My first impression upon firing it up: it looks cool. It’s bright, colorful, and full of data. If you like precipitation projections and daily high/low stats, you can get them easily.
The station automatically keeps time using an atomic clock frequency broadcast through the United States, and the station has done that reliably, something my previous station did not. Temperature has been pretty close to my local National Weather Service location for the most part. The humidity seems a little more off (for a stretch it was a double-digit discrepancy), although it depends on the day. As for the precipitation predictor? Probably about 70% accurate, which is in line with other weather stations I’ve owned. One problem with the station is that it was obviously developed with another continent in mind.
The day/date display, for example, is inverted compared to North American sensibilities, and the default temperature readout is Celsius. The day/date setup can’t be changed. The temperature can at least on the inside. Unfortunately, the outside sensor also has its own self-contained temperature readout, but it only reads in Celsius and we don’t see a way to change it to Fahrenheit. (Some readers have reported seeing a switch on the inside near the batteries, but our model doesn’t have such a switch.) This is great if you’re trying to adapt to the metric system, but not so great if you’re trying to determine what minus 2.4 degrees Celsius means. (Hint: about 28 degrees.) Overall, though, it’s a pretty good station and it performs about on par with more budget-minded weather stations that are twice its price. The Verdict: You’ll probably want something higher-end if you’re a real weather enthusiast, but if you like knowing what’s going on outside and you want a cool display to show it, you could do a lot worse for the price.
Yes it can be set to f degrees.the model i got at Aldis is the vertical one.it does so much more than I expected including humidity in and out. Also tells you if temp and humidity have gone up our down. Predicts weather based on barometric trend.this model stays illuminated while plugged in.that’s important cause I don’t want to have to push a button every time I want to look at it.brightness can be adjusted hi or low. So maybe in bedroom you can set to lowyou can read from across the room numbers nice and big.only bad thing is the Manual is 48 pages long. You do need to read parts of it to set it upit takes more than a few minutes.
I bought 3 of them. They are great for the price!! Highly recommended.
I purchased the Weather station from Aldi model 54160, it in fact does report in either C or F.It has a switch located in the back of the remote sensor that allows user to configure F or C as well as set which channel you want to read with a switch.The only issue I have come across so far is that it eats batteries in about 2 days or so. Too bad, if the remote would hold up I would keep it but replacing the batteries that often just seems crazy.
Aldi has taken them off the shelf as far as I know. FYI, the link for the manual in your review is for last year’s (2015) model #92596. The ones sold this year had model numbers of. The functions seem to be the same as the old model but the displays have different layouts. I tried Aldi’s customer form twice saying they only had links for the older version manual on their web site and asking if an updated manual was available and both times got replies with links to their list of available manuals. I like having PDF backup copies of user manuals and may end up having to scan in this one. Has anyone else noticed that the inside temperature reading is 3 degrees higher than the actual temperature when the backlight is on?
I don’t recall if it was this way when it was new, but recently, I have noticed this discrepancy. When I switch the backlight off, the temperature drops 3 degrees to agree with other thermometer readings I have available.
I like having the display constantly lit, but the 3 degree discrepancy is not acceptable. I don’t see any way to calibrate the inside thermometer to compensate for the heat the backlight is apparently generating. Do me a favor and try this for the temperature issue. U may not even have to add anything extra to that sensor. I did some fiddling and I MIGHT have figured out the problem. It’s worth a shot to try. Take the outside sensor, put FRESH Duracell or energizer batteries in it, switch the F/C setting on the sensor to Celsius.
Use farenheit at the main base. It renders ur outside sensor display unusable unless u use Celsius.BUTim only showing a ONE-ONE AND A HALF degree difference from an Acurite station now after switching the outside sensor to C. I’m also on channel 2 with the wireless. This is all I did. I cant guarantee you that it will work with ur specific one.but it’s worth a try.
Reply to this and let me know what happens. And if you need more information, don’t hesitate to reply. I hope this works out for u all. Thought I would post an update. Here it istwo weeks now with the same Duracell batteries in the outside sensor. Last night was the coldest it’s gotten in my area this season.
23 degrees F according to the unit. STILL.no low battery warning.
The night before it got down to 28 degrees F. I’ve yet to have a battery issue. So far, my unit has been spot on to both an Acurite AND a Texas Instruments weather station. Honestly, I don’t understand how or why everyone else has a battery issue.
I’m super happy with mine. Do me a favor and try this. U may not even have to add anything extra to that sensor.
I did some fiddling and I MIGHT have figured out the problem. It’s worth a shot to try. Take the outside sensor, put FRESH Duracell or energizer batteries in it, switch the F/C setting on the sensor to Celsius. Use farenheit at the main base. It renders ur outside sensor display unusable unless u use Celsius.BUTim only showing a ONE-ONE AND A HALF degree difference from an Acurite station now after switching the outside sensor to C.
I’m also on channel 2 with the wireless. This is all I did. I cant guarantee you that it will work with ur specific one.but it’s worth a try. Reply to this and let me know what happens. And if you need more information, don’t hesitate to reply.
I hope this works out for u all. I bought one. Outside temp was 6 degrees off. I do not have the capability of modifying the outside sensor, so it went back to the store. I called the tech support number beforehand and was told there was a bad batch of outside sensors. They do not have any replacements.
I also saw that in very dim text, there is an in/hg (going from memory since I returned it) marking below the hpa which is lit. However, there is no way to switch it.
It may be that was something intended but not implemented. Still, I agree it is a good value if the temperature is correct. However, not so when the temperature is so far off as to be useless. I posted this above, but I wanted to make sure u got this: do me a favor and try this. U may not even have to add anything extra to that sensor. I did some fiddling and I MIGHT have figured out the problem. It’s worth a shot to try.
Take the outside sensor, put FRESH Duracell or energizer batteries in it, switch the F/C setting on the sensor to Celsius. Use farenheit at the main base. It renders ur outside sensor display unusable unless u use Celsius.BUTim only showing a ONE-ONE AND A HALF degree difference from an Acurite station now after switching the outside sensor to C. I’m also on channel 2 with the wireless. This is all I did.
I cant guarantee you that it will work with ur specific one.but it’s worth a try. Reply to this and let me know what happens. And if you need more information, don’t hesitate to reply. I hope this works out for u all. Do me a favor and try this. U may not even have to add anything extra to that sensor.
I did some fiddling and I MIGHT have figured out the problem. It’s worth a shot to try. Take the outside sensor, put FRESH Duracell or energizer batteries in it, switch the F/C setting on the sensor to Celsius. Use farenheit at the main base. It renders ur outside sensor display unusable unless u use Celsius.BUTim only showing a ONE-ONE AND A HALF degree difference from an Acurite station now after switching the outside sensor to C. I’m also on channel 2 with the wireless.
This is all I did. I cant guarantee you that it will work with ur specific one.but it’s worth a try. Reply to this and let me know what happens.
And if you need more information, don’t hesitate to reply. I hope this works out for u all. Obviously a lot of you have the same problem with the outdoor sensor eating batteries and reading way high — I got the same results as Greg, measured about 35 mA continuous, which ate the batteries in about 2-3 days, and with that ‘enormous’ current draw (that’s like 0.1 W) resulted in some 5 degrees of self-heating. When switched to C, current draw goes to a practically undetectable 0.015 mA (but for xmit spikes), temp reading got down to a reasonable and pretty accurate number, and the batteries are lasting fine.
Heck, at one point I even considered taking a $1 solar light and using the batteries and solar cell to power the thing. Wouldn’t have fixed the temp heating problem though. I contacted support, they thought it was very strange and a possible software problem (there’s that much ‘software’ in that outside sensor?), obviously were unaware of the problem, and even after I emphasized the issue, says they are sending me a new one the whole unit? I also asked if I could purchase extra sensors, said NO. That’s very nice but if it’s (obviously) a design problem, what will that accomplish? Still, I’ll be happy to have another unit. It’s no big deal to switch to C, because that affects only the small display on the sensor itself, not the internal unit.
Still, a bit disturbing that something that obvious got past their QA. So you confirmed what I found, I never tried switching to C while testing current draw, liked the unit, so what I did was this. Broke out my old, pretty much unused Olson variable power supply, set it to the 0-12V range and adjusted to 3.2V. I carefully soldered (tacked on) a pair of 22 gauge stranded wires about a foot long, inside the battery door to the top terminals (near the switches). Black wire to negative and any other color wire to positive. Then I went outside to my no longer used telephone equipment box on the side of the house (outside) and opened it, then lifted the black and yellow pair off the terminals and twisted and soldered them to the black and any other color respectively of the sensor (make sure you feed your sensor wires up into the telephone box through the small slit provided on the bottom of the box 1st!), then insulated them with a couple pieces of electrical tape. Then I mounted the sensor holder on the customer side of the unused box and clipped on the sensor.
I found the telephone junction block in my basement, removed the black and yellow wires from the outside box, then ran them to my old Olson power supply (on my bench) and connected black to the negative post and yellow to the positive. Batteries eliminated!:o).
Oh wow, that’s quite an operation! In addition to the solar/battery idea, I considered a power brick plugged into an outside outlet (which is conveniently-enough located to where I’d want the sensor). Still, that’s not going to address the self-heating and thus quite inaccurate readings, unless you slap a small fan on it too, now this is getting ridiculous.
I have other radio/temp sensors, and generally with the proper nominal power draw, batteries should last upwards of a year. At 4 for $1 (alkaline) in a dollar store, I’m quite OK with that. What I want to add here is that my dear old dad saw my unit and liked it enough to ask if I can get HIM one too — so I trotted down to Aldi taking a chance there are any left (I assume once they’re sold, that’s it), and still 2 on the shelf. Snagged one and immediately checked it out — you guessed it, still sucking 35 mA, and to add to the consternation, it came with the switch already set to F. Another BTW, when I unpacked the unit, I got quite excited to see a USB connector on the display, leaving me with visions that this could be connected to a computer.but alas, it is just a charging port. Actually, that would be the wrong USB connection to go to a computer anyway, it would be like connecting an extension cord with 2 plug ends to 2 outlets. NOT a good idea.
And yeah, Greg, practically everything today has at least the chance of running SOME computer code. All part of the Skynet implementation. Thought I would post an update. Here it istwo weeks now with the same Duracell batteries in the outside sensor. Last night was the coldest it’s gotten in my area this season. 23 degrees F according to the unit. STILL.no low battery warning.
The night before it got down to 28 degrees F. I’ve yet to have a battery issue.
So far, my unit has been spot on to both an Acurite AND a Texas Instruments weather station. Honestly, I don’t understand how or why everyone else has a battery issue. I’m super happy with mine. I found one of these in the 50% off bin the other day and took a chance on it. After two days I haven’t been able to get the outdoor sensor to show up on the base unit. The remote sensor works, the red LED blinks occasionally, but nothing shows up on the main unit (tried all channels, tried removing batteries for a while, tried removing power from both for a while, F/C, etc.) I haven’t opened the sensor up to see if I can detect anything coming off the antenna.
The clock will set itself in my kitchen, but if I put it in my bathroom, where I had intended for it to go, it can’t pick up the signal. Regarding the hPa/inHg I noticed when downloading the manual and searching for inhg it shows up, but it’s hidden (white text on white background). So either the option it there, but they forgot to document how to change it, or they left it off on purpose. Thanks ProfQuill, yeah I am trying that suggestion as I type thisjust started today.
The temperature seems to be correct as I have a 2016 Sempre unit to check it againstonly.1 C degrees difference which is like.2 F. I will have to wait 3 days or so of use to check the battery issue mentioned for the sensor. Regardless, I won’t cancel my refund request. This was an F grade on their part for quality control and has taken a lot of my time to fix THEIR problems which easily should have been caugh by them 7 degrees too high on outside temperature when in the F position on sensor and batteries lasting only 2 days100% unacceptable, even if this gimmick fix works. They have lost a lot of potential future customers.that’s a shame. OK, a final update I think.
After changing the sensor to C from F and letting it run for 5 days, the readings are all correct and the batteries are still fine in the sensor. As someone said above and my electrical engineer neighbor suggested, when they added the F outdoor sensor circuitry, they left out a resistor(s). What that essentially did was to not control the voltage properly and also caused the sensor to register 7 degrees F too high due to the heat generated. Since the pre 2017 units didn’t have the F option, there was no problem with the sensor due to that.
I will say the 2017 unit did correct the problem on 2015 and 2016 units where if the backlight was left on high on the main unit, the indoor temperature was 3 degrees too highthe light clearly too close to the sensor in the unit. 2017 unit doesn’t have that problem since they reoriented the guts of the base unit. Fascinating, that makes the most sense of all the speculation. Wonder if Sempre could supply a resistor kit for the geeks amongst us who would be willing to give it a go. But I do wonder about the folks here who say the problem is not fixed even when set to C. For my case, I really don’t look at the outside sensor (now, anyway, maybe I would more in ‘outdoor weather’), so probably wouldn’t risk messing with it.
I’ll also verify that my model doesn’t have an issue with indoor temp, and I do keep the lights on, so to speak. Way back, I had an email dialog with their support, who said they were shipping me a new unit (whole thing or the sensor?), but that’s been 6 weeks and haven’t heard anything, not that I need to push the issue, they may be involved in fixing things.
By rights, should be a recall or at least a, so to speak, TSB, but since you don’t really register anything, they have no real way to contact customers. Yeah, I’m still waiting for my refund that I applied for and they agreed to about 1 week ago. I’m still going to try to push for that since after all, I have had to spend a lot of time reading suggestions here, trying different options, and still don’t know if this will stay “fixed”.
I bought this for a neighbor as a gift and really made me look bad also for giving a “defective product”. Still utterly amazes me that these units aren’t tested out. Why in the 2015/2016 model did they not notice/warn people that leaving the light on would up the indoor temperature by 3 degrees. Why in the 2017 model did they not even test the readings and durability of batteries in the outside sensor when set in the F position.
This isn’t rocket scienceit is elementary quality control. Apparently, they don’t even do quality control but just “ship ’em”. I can attest to its low quality. Batteries do only last a couple of days. At then end I used brand new rechargeable batteries and they would last.
As I read through some of the replies I see that the F options is the cause of the higher heat. Though I did suspect it was a missing resister somewhere I didn’t think that they would just have left it out on the F conversion chip but it does explain my findings. As for the increase in head on the AC adapter. That would be due to the higher voltage. I just got a cheap adapter off ebay which registers 3.4 volts. Knowing the batteries are going to give it. Yeah, the real solution to this deal is to make sure the outdoor sensor switch is set to C mode.
That seems to have solved it for almost everyone and it still can register as F degrees on the base unit. I don’t begrudge any electrical “geeks” to want to try other methods like adding a resistor or external power source, but I’m a “keep it simple” guy.
Plus, I’m not an electrical guy but even I knew Spillz was going to have temperature issues. The last thing I would guess you want to do to fix the “too much voltage” issue is to satisfy that with an external source that would provide “too much voltage”. Not a shocker that it would heat up the sensor which of course is why the temperature was registering too high to begin with when set to F position. More voltage to my knowledge means more heat unless you do something to compensate for that. Bottom line: The outdoor sensor switch should be in the C position and change the batteries probably every year or so which is reasonable. Problem solved.
About the only thing I can think of, absent the idea that the water damaged it beyond repair, is to disassemble it, and do what you can to clean the circuit board, especially around the coiled up wire which is the antenna. Normally rain should be pretty clean and drying it out would be OK, but perhaps some crud got in there with it and is changing the strength and frequency of the transmission. I assume you didn’t really blast it with a LOT of heat. So, I’d try brushing the board clean with a small brush, wetting it in a bit of rubbing alcohol, letting it dry well. Seems you don’t have much to lose by trying.
Thankyou This is equal to a ten dollar accurite thermometer from a chain store, I calibrated to 56 degree, and when temp rose to 65, it was off by 3 degree, at 70 it was off by 8 degrees, and the error only got worse as the temp rose. I suspect at around 85, it would be off by more than 15 degrees. If you want a thermometer to be close within a small range, this may work for you, but if you want to get an accurate temp, i suggest you look elsewhere. I finally got so aggravated, into the trash it went, a fitting place. I think they’re history.